Holiday Charter Bliss: Escape The Crowds In Belize
Cruising the blue waters and white sands of this Central American country provides tired travelers a respite from holiday music and Christmas crowds.
November 12, 2024
Plastic reindeer and Black Friday ads were starting to haunt my dreams so it was an ideal time to get out of town. Our group booked a 45-catamaran with The Moorings in relatively remote Belize and were more than a little ready to escape yet another rendition of Jingle Bell Rock.
Above: Boats at Haulover Creek in Belize City, the largest city of Belize. Photo via Pond5.
The Moorings: Our Charter Jump-Off
The Moorings/Sunsail charter base is at Laru Beya Marina on Placencia Peninsula, a short puddle jump flight south from Belize City. The peninsula is a long spit of sand and mangroves with azure waters on both sides. The Moorings base is large with dozens of shiny cats and that told me how popular this destination must be outside of our shoulder season when we visited.
I’d already had to do a bit more preparation for Belize than for many other charters primarily because the waters here are shallow, really shallow, and full of coral heads, reef and rocks all around. You can keep your eyes glued to the charts but you may still find yourself floating just inches over keel-crunching coral no matter how vigilant you are. It’s a bit anxiety-inducing but then most fun things are.
Belize Certificate of Competency Yacht Captains
As a charter skipper, I had to obtain a “Belize Port Authority Temporary Certificate of Competency” from the government and watch an online video about the shallow cruising grounds where the charts are more of a suggestion than a promise. The Moorings helps with this process so all you do is fill out a form and provide a passport photo but you need the knowledge.
This Central American country is tucked between Mexico and Guatemala on the Caribbean Sea with 350 islands running north and south from the base. There’s no wrong way to go first. In fact, that’s best decided by the weather so you can enjoy a comfortable sail rather than a hard bash upwind to get back to base at the end of the week.
Monkey River & Local Wildlife
We first headed south to Monkey River which leads through trees and fields to the interior. Howler monkeys live on the river’s banks, screaming from treetops like they’re preparing for battle. We were picked up from our boat by a panga by a professional guide with amazing vision. He pointed out birds, snakes, and crocodiles that I would have missed for sure. It had been rainy and wet so when we landed on the bank to check out the monkeys, what we got were clouds of mosquitos so aggressive that no bug spray was a threat to them. Presumably during the dry season, the onslaught isn’t so vicious.
Cruising Grounds: Ray Cay, Snorkeling, Turtles & Fish
The next morning we headed north to our main cruising grounds for the week. We picked our way among the postcard perfect cays finding everything from windy snorkel spots to peaceful mangrove anchorages. For me, Ray Cay and the preserve that borders it to the north were a highlight. You can’t enter the preserve in your own dinghy so we booked a panga tour that came with the added benefit of local knowledge. Our first stop was a snorkeling circumnavigation of a small island surrounded by coral and ribbons of fish. It was a bit choppy and two of our group saw their lunch come back which was too bad because the second stop, which they sat out, was spectacular.
Above: A sea turtle swimming underwater in Belize. Photo via Pond5.
We pulled up close to one of the small local fishing boats which work offshore, crewed by 2-4 men who live on deck since most of the interior is taken up by ice. They fill their 30-foot holds with their catch before they return to the mainland, and sometimes that can take days. Sharks, remoras, and giant rays recognize these boats and gather for a feast as the fish are cleaned and the guts are chucked overboard. We anchored next to one of these boats and jumped into an aquarium. It was everything, everywhere, all at once. I literally bumped heads with a huge turtle as we both surfaced.
Twin Cays: Safe Anchorage
After sitting out a boisterous night at Ray Cay with a punishing north wind, the weather settled and we made our way lazily from one island to the next. The calmest night we had was in the Twin Cays, a muddy bottom anchorage surrounded by mangroves which gave us a perfectly still evening. It would have been a great place for a swim but we were warned about crocodiles so we skipped the bathing.
Pelican Cays: Beach Restaurant Destination
On the way north to the Pelican Cays, we motored in drenching rain and little visibility but once we pulled through the small front, we dinghied to the Pelican Beach Restaurant and met Dustin and his family. They’ve carved out a Robinson Crusoe home and restaurant on this coral cay and they live well off the grid with their young daughter who relishes every bit of WiFi she’s allowed.
We found ourselves at our most northern point on our second to last day so we set the sails and slipped along slowly, hoping to hold onto the best parts of this peaceful world before returning to the real one.
Logistics and Tips for a Belize Charter
There are many ways to charter in Belize. You can do the standard one-week run around the cays off the coast of Placencia, you can take two weeks and sail all the way up to Ambergris Cay, or you can hire a local skipper to take you on the outside to Lighthouse Reef to dive the famous Blue Hole.
Getting There
Most North American flights go through Belize City from which you can either take a ground shuttle or a 30-minute flight on Tropic Air down to Placencia where the charter bases are located. These 10-seat planes offer great views but can be bit much for anyone with a fear of flying.
Weather
Weather forecasts are done with a broad brush, showing a general idea of what’s happening in the region. However, the winds funnel between the cays in various directions and create their own mayhem, especially in November. I attempted to craft an itinerary to maximize time under sail but realistically, you’ll do your sailing between the cays and the peninsula on a straight shot north or south, and motor between the cays which are close together for the most part. The prevailing winds are easterlies at 10-20 knots, but they can come in various strengths.
Currency
Credit cards are accepted in restaurants, but cash is needed with street vendors. The currency is the Belizean dollar that exchanges 2:1 with the US dollar that also works in most places. English is the national language but it’s often spoken with such a strong dialect that you’ll find yourself listening closely to catch the gist of the conversation.
Provisioning
Provisioning is easy via large supermarkets in town, or you can let The Moorings do the job for you. You won’t need to provision for all dinners since many of the cays have tempting restaurants with fresh fish.
There are few moorings in the cays near Placencia and fewer accessible docks so bring your best anchoring skills. Also, ask for a boat with a water maker because there are scant opportunities to fill up once you leave town.
Placencia
Placencia offers lots of attractive accommodations where you can relax for a few days before or after your charter. At posh Naia Resort you’ll want to for nothing, while a budget option in a basic room overlooking chickens and a clothesline will get you into the real feel of the place. We stayed at Placencia Pointe Townhomes at the bottom of the peninsula in nice two-story modern condos on their own beach. We had a pool and could walk to the eateries and shopping in the center of town so we weren’t held captive in a resort.
Above: Placencia Beach in Belize. Photo via Pond5.
Highlights: Mayan Ruins, Cave Tubing, Pyramids & More
Mayan ruins draw many tourists to Belize so I booked a tour via Truly Wild Belize to visit the large Xunantunich complex. Due to flooding from heavy rains, we didn’t make it there but our driver diverted to Cahal Pech, a smaller ancient village where we climbed the pyramids on our own and in blissful quiet.
Cave tubing is another temptation and despite the swollen rivers, we forged ahead. Our tour started with a river crossing, clinging to a rope stretched across fast water. Once at our launching spot, our guide tied the tubes together into a bright green centipede and we drifted in and out of caves and along the banks of the jungle. Even in turbulent waters, this was a highlight.
Happy for the Holidays
The 10 days we spent in Belize provided me a much-needed respite from the merry making madness back home. It was so refreshing that I may just have a new holiday tradition to lean on by chartering in the blue waters and white sands of Belize.
